E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[PO6EPT]

Ich habe die Odin gebraucht mit 58km gekauft weil der Verkäufer nach 6 Monaten Wartezeit auf eine Zero umsteigen wollte.
Er konnte mit einer Vorrichtung beide Räder Wuchten, (Hinterrad auch gewuchtet) also laufen tut die Maschine sehr ruhig. Ich habe jetzt ca. 2400km drauf.
Reifen wurden auch gleich vom Verkäufer auf Bridgestone getauscht, weil die Chinareifen schlecht sind.
Sonst ist alles original.
Hab auch etwas schlechtes Bauchgefühl so zu fahren, deswegen bin ich auf der Suche was nicht stimmen kann oder was ich ändern muss das wieder alles ok ist.

[dominik]

Zuerst würde ich mal den Leitungsweg der Batterieleitungen nach Schmauchspuren absuchen.

Falls nichts zu finden ist würde ich mal noch woanders her eine ANL Sicherung kaufen, eventuell auch einen anderen Tyo, es könnten ja wirklich Vibrationen sein, welche der Sicherung mechanisch zusetzen.

Ich hatte zu Autohifi-Zeiten auch mal eine schlechte Charge erwischt. Mein kleiner 6 Kanal Verstärker hat in wenigen Wochen mehrere vergoldete 100A Sicherungen verschließen obwohl er auch mit Sinustönen nicht dazu zu bewegen war mehr als 70A zu ziehen.
Ich hab dann eine ganz billige aussehende 80A aus dem Solar-Bereich eingebaut, die lag noch zu Hause rum, die hat 16Jahre gehalten, dann hatte der Rost das Auto dahingerafft.
Hab dann nach ein paar Wochen mal noch die restlichen vergoldeten Sicherungen geöffnet, die hat nur die Beschichtung zusammengehalten, wenn die minimal verdreht wurden beim anschrauben hat sich das Sicherungsdrähtchen einseitig abgelöst.

[Miguello80]

Hi guys,
well, nobody sent me COC list for 10kW so I am not able to ask DMV and find out the law requirements for changing 6kW motor for 10kW
At least, can anybody look into his 10kW COC list and tell me what size of rear wheel rim is written there ? 5.5" with 180/55 R17 or 6" 180/70 R17 ?
Thanks.

[Zimmermännche]

Hi guys,
well, nobody sent me COC list for 10kW so I am not able to ask DMV and find out the law requirements for changing 6kW motor for 10kW
At least, can anybody look into his 10kW COC list and tell me what size of rear wheel rim is written there ? 5.5" with 180/55 R17 or 6" 180/70 R17 ?
Thanks.

Hi Miguello, bei mir ist allerdings von Anfang an auch ein anderer Vorderreifen eingetragen, da Auslieferung mit MAXXIS-Reifen war.

[Miguello80]

Hi Miguello, bei mir ist allerdings von Anfang an auch ein anderer Vorderreifen eingetragen, da Auslieferung mit MAXXIS-Reifen war.

Oh man, thank you !
So the same as 6kW Odin. I believe 10kW motor should fit into 6kW's swing arm, if it has the same 230 mm dropout (width inside the swing arm).
My buddy will ask his friend with connections in China to try to buy two 10kW AMR motors. There is no chance to buy that motor separately, at least here in Czech Republic.
Because there is no informations about "AMR" motors + they do not have temp sensor, I am looking also on QS and Yuma motors. But it seems that they do not produce 10/11kW motors on 5.5" rim, only 12kW on 6" rim but that is not so important, 180/55 R17 will fit 6" rim so the motor replacement should not be too obvious when 12 kW is over the legal limit
But this is a big future, now I am buying EV so money goes there.
Anyway, thank you again.

[Zimmermännche]

Hi Miguello, bei mir ist allerdings von Anfang an auch ein anderer Vorderreifen eingetragen, da Auslieferung mit MAXXIS-Reifen war.

Oh man, thank you !
So the same as 6kW Odin. I believe 10kW motor should fit into 6kW's swing arm, if it has the same 230 mm dropout (width inside the swing arm).
My buddy will ask his friend with connections in China to try to buy two 10kW AMR motors. There is no chance to buy that motor separately, at least here in Czech Republic.
Because there is no informations about "AMR" motors + they do not have temp sensor, I am looking also on QS and Yuma motors. But it seems that they do not produce 10/11kW motors on 5.5" rim, only 12kW on 6" rim but that is not so important, 180/55 R17 will fit 6" rim so the motor replacement should not be too obvious when 12 kW is over the legal limit
But this is a big future, now I am buying EV so money goes there.
Anyway, thank you again.

Hi Miguello,
Madatshop bietet auf seinen Seite folgendes an:



KOMPATIBILITÄT

Dieser Aluminium Hub Motor mit diesen E Motorradern kompatibel:

- Dayi E Odin 2.0

- E Odin 2.0 Pro

- E Odin 3.0 Pro


Hier der Link:
https://madatshop.com/e-motorr%C3%A4der ... rsatzteile

Dann müssen sie ja eigentlich verschiedene Varianten haben oder besorgen können, da ja nicht jeder Controller und Motor zusammen funktioniert bei den 3 Odin Varianten.

Du kannst ja mal nachfragen, vielleicht erhälst du dann ja nützliche Informationen.

[Miguello80]

Madatshop bietet auf seinen Seite folgendes an:
https://madatshop.com/e-motorr%C3%A4der ... rsatzteile

Madatshop is bunch of frauds, they still owe me about 160 euro. I ordered front left + rear brake caliper and they sent me front and rear brake discs. I thought that it was just a mistake so I contacted them (directly Mr. Mazatov) and they appologized and said "I will look at storehouse", then "we do not have it" and "send it back, we will pay you shipping costs". I sent it back and urged them many times to pay me my money back, they never did even when I informed them that I am going to demand my money by any necessary legal way for any costs. And I will, now I am too busy to solve this shit.
So based on that experience I will not buy anything from Madatshop again.
And I believe that that motor is 6 kW, not 10 kW. Yes, 6 kW motor will fit into 3.0 Odin, that is true. Anything else from them I do not believe.

What about dealer NMD or NDM ? I read they were not reliable and maybe does not exist anymore. Any info or experiences ?

[Miguello80]

Muhehehe, finaly I replaced warped factory discs with new (floating) brake discs. I know, I did not mounted them symmetrically "wave to wave", I noticed it later and I like it more this way.
I was affraid that these 300 mm discs will be too wide (factory discs are 297 mm) but no problem. Maybe because I changed also brake calipers for Brembo as I posted earlier. I can not guarantee that they will fit with newer version of brake calipers (HSK racing, those WITHOUT red "buttons"), they should fit with classic version of brake calipers (those WITH red "buttons")
Wow, braking is great again, no kicking from warped discs.
No, I will not buy any factory part, even when these new brake discs will not last long, I will find any other solution than original discs.
Squeeking when going to stop (10 km/h and less) is still there but this will solve better brake pads. It seems that neither Brembo brake pads is a certainity of silence.

Google 300mm brake discs for Lexmoto. 5 holes 10mm, D 300 mm, d 120 mm (circle through middle of mounting holes), inner diameter 100 mm.
For example here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176249083864 and with better specifications here: https://www.cmpoparts.com/part/BRDF031

[bob2.0]

D.h. das Bremslicht war bereits an (am Seitenständer ist ja ein Schalter für's Bremslicht).
Also: "Goat-foot" hochgeklappt und die E-Odin in der Waage gehalten -> Rücklicht war an (deutlich dunkler als zuvor), Bremse betätigt / oder Seitenständer ausgeklappt -> Rücklicht leuchtet hell.

Thank you for this, I did a further search as I could not make any sense of the switch. Both sides were showing 13V. Now it makes sense as there is a '3rd secret switch' the bike controls!

I was trying to find a circuit diagram, all I see on the bike is a load of wires going in one end of the harness and appear at the back. What is in the harness, and the many colour changes along the way?

So, now I know what to say to the MoT test person for the brake light, I still have to fix the number plate light. I was going to tap the rear light, but now I see that powers off when the brake light comes on.

I don't know where this plate light goes, or why it is not working, but I can rig a line from the headlight to the back to power it. I don't want to do that really.

[Miguello80]

I was trying to find a circuit diagram, all I see on the bike is a load of wires going in one end of the harness and appear at the back. What is in the harness, and the many colour changes along the way?

Google "fardriver wiring diagram", it is pretty easy to understand, then we can help with specific questions.
I learned a lot while I was installing fuse box + dascams, onboard charger and new headlights. Practice makes masters You will learn it too soon.

So, now I know what to say to the MoT test person for the brake light, I still have to fix the number plate light. I was going to tap the rear light, but now I see that powers off when the brake light comes on.
I don't know where this plate light goes, or why it is not working, but I can rig a line from the headlight to the back to power it. I don't want to do that really.

This should not be too hard to find the problem. Take off the seat and near the seat lock there are 4 not connected wires (for turn signals on side bags) and then 2+2 wires for turn signals and then (I hope I remember it correctly)
- wire for break light (stronger when brake is pressed)
- wire for plate light (still on)
- wire for ground.
Check their connection to wires that goes to the front. Those connections are crappy so there can be bad contact.